Thursday, June 29, 2006

The Southern Hemisphere

Truely definately the fatherst Ive been away from home. Smack full of awesome.

I cant believe that Im in Brazil..

I cant believe that Im rapidly learning to speak Portugese!!! (because it is quite similar to spanish)

I cant believe that I crossed the equator the day before yesterday.. I thought the equator was supposed to be crazy hot. I suppose Im just climatized.

And to think, in the beginning, my plans were to never leave Guatemala..

Today, were taking a boat into the Rio Amazonas. And into the Amazon. Where we will be staying for 3 days... I hope its as pimp as all the hype :)

Anyways. Keep it real.

Tylyer

Saturday, June 24, 2006

Guyana

Im still zoned from the plane.

I managed yesterday to do the 17 hours of travelling to get from the hostel in San Jose, to the place where a good friend of mine Kristy, was volunteering, in Anna Catharina, Guyana. Holy crap.

It was an interesting trip aswell, because due to the nature of my arrival (I arrived exactly 24 hours before I said I was going to. Big surprise for Kristy :D) it was somewhat difficult to get information of exactly what I was getting myself into. So many details of my final arrival in Anna Catharina werent taken care of.. I still had very little idea of what Georgetown was like until I got there.

So, as I was sitting on the plane, doing the last leg of the journey from Barbados to Georgetown, I overheard two men talking behind me. One was living and working in the states (I had to fly to miami to get the connecting flight to Georgetown... ..) but had a family in Georgetown, the other was from Georgetown but living somewhere else entirely, and just visiting.

Anyways, I asked them if they knew of the place I needed to go. They thought for a while.. and said no. And strongly advised me that if I didnt know where I was going, I should just find a hotel to sleep in in Georgetown. Because it was dangerous, and soforth. I questioned them more, about cabfare, about the dangers of the area, and about prices.. wow! Hotels were normally USD$40-50 a night here. I couldnt afford that, I didnt really bring enough money, and atms are a very rare commodity here.
But one of the guys, named Daam, said that a good friend was coming to pick him up from the Airport. He would likely know the place where I wanted to go.
After we landed and went through customs, we asked, and his friend did not know. So, Daam, after giving me a free ride into Georgetown with his friend, let me repeatedly call the place where Kristy was volunteering on his cellphone. No answer, I was hoping I could maybe get some helpful information from one of the other volunteers. Daam then called his sister in law, who was a dispatcher for a taxi company. He asked her to question all of the cab drivers, if they knew where it was. We drove to the dispatch office where his sister worked, and it turned out they did know, and it wasnt far. Daam then gave me cab fare(!!) (I did not have any local currancy, as the tourist office was closed when I arrived) as I thanked him profusly for all the help. He told me I could give him a call and stay at his house that night, if I didnt end up finding where I needed to go.

So we hopped in the taxi, and tore across a mile long bridge over one of the massive rivers near Georgetown. After driving for about half an hour more, we arrived in Anna Katharina. We began asking people, and hunting around for the Sunshine Woman and Youth's Centre, and.. we found it! With lights on! But.. empty. And locked. After flying for so long, and getting so lucky with actually GETTING to the frickin place, where I could possibly immensly surprise this good friend of mine.. no one was there. Shit.
But, the night wasnt over yet. After talking about what we were going to do, the taxi driver helped me ask around about when the volunteers of the place where getting back. It turned out that the caretaker of the place lived next door!! And offered to lend me her couch to rest on, as she assured me they would be returning that night.
Later that night, they arrived. I snuck in, and was lead my some of the other volunteers to where Kristy was. She was happy to see me :)

I must say that NONE of this wouldnt have happened without my awesome friend, Heather Baron. She kicks some serious ass. And helped me get sneaky info about where Kristy was volunteering.

And tomorrow, Kristy and I, along with other volunteers, hop on a night bus bound for the border of Brazil. 12 hours when the roads are good, 20 when its the rainy season... and, its the rainy season. After, we get another bus, and headpunch our way into Brazil, and the Amazon. I hope I eat atleast one large amphibian.

Love for all when all is free and fruitfull.
Take care

Tyler

Wednesday, June 21, 2006

And now for something completly different.

No pictures. Camera still broken.

Panama was amazing.. a very different country, they have unique laws that set it apart from all the other countries in Central America.

Im back in Costa Rica now, I left my bike with some friends I made.

This friday, Im flying to Guyana. Shortly thereafter, Im bussing into Brazil, into the Amazon.

No joke.

That is all. Ill write more later.

=D

Tuesday, June 13, 2006

Hey look!

I arrived. :D

That is all.

Sunday, June 11, 2006

Purple-headed Yogurt Squirter


And plasma death rays.. and stuff..


(both pictures of me and my tent in Los Chiles, Costa Rica)


Yay! I have more time!
I had to come back to the internet cafe, because I conviently managed to leave all of my money in my tent.. minus just enough change for the bus. So, I had to come back. Had to pay for the internet.

So, before, my camera´s ability to take pictures was very very limited (it automatically took one picture every time I turned it on) but now, I cant even rely on that.. the pictures all have this awesome tint of green that I cant do anything about (maybe I could with a picture editor, but Im not going to brother trying.) Its broken.

I am, however, going to try to bribe someone to take a digital picture of me when I get to Panama City and the Canal.

(the boat into Costa Rica. Notice the bike.)


Update:
Okay. So where Im staying right now is on a beach (more or less). My tent is actually on a palm-tree covered area just before the beach. Which lead me to a discovery.. palm trees shed their huge 100ib branches much more frequently than normal trees do. Their brances are kind of like leaves in that way. But just a lot bigger. And kind of dangerous. As I was eating dinner at a friend´s house near by, I watched a huge branch plummet from about 20 feet up and do an almost direct hit to my tent.. one of the poles is a little bent, but I was impressed. With all the crazy sub leaves on the main palm tree "leaf" that fell, its final velocity before it struck my tent was considerably less than what it could have been. Part of it also struck the ground, so that helped too. But.. my tent survived.. and I got to drag the leafbranchmonster over to where a firepile was and hack it up for firewood. Machette = 1, palmtreebranchdeath = 0.

When I arrived here in Puerto Limon, I had the knowledge from other friendly people that I met that Limon was realitvely dangerous. So, I passed through it quickly.. and then, after counting my money, and realizing that I have a long time to go before I could get more, I headed back in, and quickly waited in a long line for an ATM with my bike. And then.. quickly used the atm. And left. Not so quick. None of it was quick. Thats what I was trying to get across.
But um, I have noticed that my sence for dangerous places is being hightened. I noticed that I can read it in people, how the people hold themselves in the street... what the street looks like.. what people are doing.. After passing through certain parts of Limon, I felt very safe in certain parts, and in other parts I felt like it was not the best place to be. And after talking to these friends that Ive met and am staying with more or less, outside of Limon on the beach, I was right. It was cool, and I am happy.

After leaving Limon for a second time, I rode.. and was feeling progressivly more and more drained. After a few km, I realized that I had eaten very little that day, and decided that the first thing I was going to do was track down some dinner. So, I rode into the first bar-restaurant that I found (the only thing that I found), pulled up my bike, sat down, and asked for a menu.

Sitting next to me, was this shirtless, crazyteethed (trying to use a nice term), shaggy-haired black man. A thing about the Atlantic cost and the carribean in general, is that there are a lot of black people here. Im not going to pretend that I know a lot about the history of the place, but I know that the spaniards where the ones that "discovered" this new world and that the black race exsists in Central America because of the slaves that were brought over.
Anyways. I quickly learned that this black man´s name was Eddie. He addressed me immidiately in English, which was nice. And after about 15 seconds of talking with this person, I knew that I did not want to find another place to sleep that night.

Eddie (I dont have a picture.. I wish I did) is the father of four children, 2 of which live in his small home on the beach. His youngest son and his second youngest son lifare the ones living with him, his youngest son being 25 and having a wife and two kids (with a thrid on the way), and his second youngest son being ..older, and living in a room on his own. The two grandchildren, the son and daughter of his youngest son, each have their "own" rooms, the daughter sleeping with the grandfather and the son having a room to himself. The married couple (.. i dont actually know if theyre actually married) have their own room.
So, there are 6 rooms in the small, one floor cabin. The livingroom, which has the couple´s room on one side and the oldest son´s room on the other, and the kitchen, which has the grandson´s room on one side and the grandaughter/Eddies room on the other (confused yet?). And here, they live happier than many people Ive met in Costa Rica. In fact.. I would have to say all of the people Ive met.
My tent is currently outside of their house, on the beach, and I am allowed to use their shower and kitchen. Today, I went fishing with the grandkids and couple, in a dugout canoe, in a river that feeds into the ocean near here. They had slingshots.. and the father of the couple and the grandson were using them to shoot at birds.. until they killed one. A fairly large duck. Immidately the two of them both dove out and swam to the shore to where the duck was, picked it up, and brought it back. I asked, "What are you going to do with that?" They replied, "Eat him." And I thought it was fun and games.

Today, after sleeping long, hard and beautiful yet again.. I woke up at around 10. 10! Frickin awesome. I looked out through my tent door and the fly, and I saw beautiful sand and trees basked in the carribean sun. And I felt absolutly no urge to leave. I slowly dragged myself out of my tent, and pulled some clothes on.. and thought, for yet another time, "Bike travel is very difficult."

Theres been two phrases that seemed to keep coming back to me since I started travelling on bicycle.
The first one, that came to me more in the beginning of my trip, is, "Exsistance is a funny thing." I kept thinking about this, because, my life was(/is) changing so much, even from day to day. I was meeting new people, travelling different places, dealing with different circumstances and finding places to sleep on a day to day basis. But, through all the change, and all the crazy things I was seeing/experiencing/feeling, one thing stayed the same, me. In the sence, that Im the same person (although I believe I have changed some). But, Im still the same person that was living, as before, and the same person that was exsisting, dispite all the crazy worlds Ive been swimming through. Exsistance is funny.. because one person can exsist in a world (on this world) under so many different circumstances. There are so many different lives that are being lived.. you ge to meet so many of them while travelling.
Wow, holy rant. I guess Im in the writing kind of mood :D I have energy.

The second phrase is, "Bike travel is very difficult." The physical part of bike travel is managable, I can handle the physical part. But the part of this kind of travel that is so difficult is that I keep finding all these amazing people and places, and sometimes is so, so hard to pick up and leave. Eddie says if I want, I can stay with them for months. So hard to leave.

(what a very, very top-heavy bike continuously does. In a hostel in Granada, Nicaragua)


Anyways, continuing on with my story, this morning, as I was slowly putting my things together, packing up my tent, looking at the beautiful sun, white sand and relaxed atmosphere, Eddie came up to me. He said, "Why you goin and doin dat nonsense fo´? Its too late in the day to leave now. The sun is faar to hot (prounounced like Ho but with a t) and its far better fer you ta leave te next mornin. Bright n early. If ya leave no yo gunna git cook´d in th´ sun and youre not gunna make it very far and.. its no sense to leave t´day. Besides, the young´ns are gunna go fishing and they want you to come." He went on like that for about 5 minutes, before I finally told him that I definately did not want to leave. Him asking me to stay.. well, him telling me to stay was definatly enough to convince me to stay another day. And here I am.

Another interesting event that happened recently:
Last night, after I got home from using the internet, I went back to my tent to look for where I left my money. I noticed that I left my inner tent door open in my tired state, when I left. I started groping around to find my flashlight..

I still remember the brief almost-a-second feeling of confusion of the random sensation of something grasping my left thumb.

And I still remember the intense pain of the realization that followed, as I flailed and yelled something like "AAAANDTHATSACRABFUCKNGSHIT"... wow those fuckers are strong. He drew blood, and dispite the continued tenderness my thumb its healing nicely. In the passion I also conviently ripped his arm off, after which he nicely obliged and released me. (Mental note: crabs let go of you really fast if you rip their limbs off.) Im not cruel, it was self defence.


(he is a man that helped me find a place to stay, in Mayasa, Nicaragua)

(Also some people that helped me in Masaya. They bought me lunch, for no particular reason other than Im doing what Im doing... I also have their contact information, "If (I) ever need anything when (Im) here next, just call. Anything.")

(verybigtree)

(Michelle (yes you Michelle!), this Bull´s for you. ..But you have to come get him)

Here is one more story I want to include.. wow this is a long entry. Some of you have recieved this story already, in one form or another.

The climb of that volcano took me 2 days to complete. I left the sea-level sort of area around the middle of the day, from a town called San Miguel. I started climbing.. Im lazy. Here´s a version of the story Ive already written (sorry Kristy, I stole it).
It was getting dark, and there was a fairly intense storm going on all around me (and on me), and I had been steadily climbing this volcano on my bike for 4 or 5 hours. I was freezing. I was hungry. I had no food, and I was out of range of my planned destination for the night. It was too dark to ride, because there was no visability due to the intense rain. So.. I last-resorted it (heh.. resort) and went up to this hotel and asked if I could put up my tent under their outdoor roof. The reception called the manager.. as they were talking, some guests walked by. It turned out that they were there (here) on their honeymoon.. and they were paying $120US a night..!!!
The responce I usually recieve from hotels is basically, "Screw you, no you cant sleep here for free, but you can pay for a room." And.. something like this was what I was expecting from this luxury hotel I found way up in the mountains. But.. instead, they said, "Weve decided we´ll give you a bed instead. And dinner, for free." I just about pooed myself.

The next night, after managing to summit Volcan Poas, I was decending the first part of the volcano when.. pop! pop! Two more spokes went, following the ones that had already broke when I was climbing. My wheel quickly became near-unusable.
After riding many dangerous kilometeres in yet another storm, with a wheel that looked like a taco chip (not quite) and wet non-exsistant brakes, I arrived into a town big enough to have a bike shop.
Thats one thing about Costa Rica.. its normal here for people to have cars. There are not many bike shops around.
But, I fixed my wheel, and a really good friend here ended up helping me out.. I think Im going to have to continue this story next time. Holy blog.

(Ethne once asked me what the desersts look like here. This is what they look like (and what I have ridden through))

(And below.. thats me.)

Saturday, June 10, 2006

So, umm...

First things first. My camera has crapped out. I may be able to get pictures off of it, the ones that I have taken, but my ability to take pictures has been diminished fairly effectively. And, um, shit, this compter doesnt have USB!! so I cant do that right now.

As some people may have already assumed, Im in Costa Rica. But not for much longer. Day after tomorrow, Im planning on crossing into Panama.... getting close, I can almost taste the desiel.

Something I wrote in an entry I had going a few days ago:
Wow. So tired right now. Last night, I barely slept, due to a slarge of mosquitos in the night. And then today, I felt sick once again.. which was aggrivated by my lack of energy and lack of stamina from not sleeping. And.. since Im back in the lowlands of Costa Rica, it was convienently hot and humid.. which, all combined with needing to make more distance towards Panama on my bike full of stuff, equalled a very painful start to today.

Yeah.. still feeling shitty. I decided to take an off day, I havent road my bike at all today. But still, I have no energy, I think it might be due to my diet or something. Hard to eat right when youre focusing on making distance, I guess. It loooks like that Ill easily have enough time to reach the Canal before my brother and sister and Rob get here, but I might have to bus part of the way back. Travel is slower since Ive been trying to go faster.

I slept long and hard last night. Felt a liiittle better, this morning.. and I was feeling that it would be best for me to get up and put a few Kms under my belt. So I started packing up my tent.. but felt a little light headed so I laid down for a second.. and woke up 3 hours later. So I stayed.
But I dont feel bad enough that I think Im actually sick.. I blame how Im feeling on diet, heat/humidity, and the fact that Ive gone ten days without stopping to catch my breath. Been riding hard every day, and it killed me. Thinking back, this is the longest stretch Ive done to date aswell, so.. maybe thats it.

So.. Update..
Right NOW, Im in Puerto Limon, in Costa Rica. Ive seen the San Jose International Airport, exactly where Im going to meet brothersisterRob. Ive counted and recounted the days still I get to see them (Im not anxcious or excited. Im frickin screaming to see them.) I climbed a volcano (2798m) on my bike with stuff, took me 7 hours to finish. 7 hours of climbing, kick me in the balls please. Ive broken 12 spokes, in total. And Im 98km from the Panama Border. Hell yeah.

Besides being sick, Ive had some really great experiences here in Costa Rica. Ive also noticed how differnt Costa Rica is from the rest of Central America.. including the people. Dont have time right now to discribe them, as some people who came into Limon with me are waiting (Limon is dangerous, and they were nice enough to escort me in).

Anyways. The black death panther of the neon brown lagoon is again taking the waffle-sized bite out of the fistfull of pretty yellow hornets I fed him.

Keep on keepin´ on. Peace and love.

Tyler